Farewell Derry!

It has been quite a trip Derry, and I would like to thank you for your hospitality and share with you some of my thoughts after my three week stay.

By the time you are reading this article, I will have already made the trip back home to the United States from Derry and will be at school writing a reflective paper about this wonderful city.  It saddens me to have these thoughts right now, given that I will still have a couple of days left in Derry between writing this article and the time it reaches print. 

Derry is a place that is truly different from anywhere else that I have traveled to in the world.  As someone who has been studying the history of the conflict in this area, I can see that great changes have taken place and I have greatly enjoyed experiencing the most peaceful era that this city has seen in a long time.  That being said, the interior divide that I was completely ignorant of in my first article has made itself more apparent to me over the past couple of weeks.  While adults on both sides of the divide are clearly working to achieve peace between Catholics and Protestants, I’m afraid that the same doesn’t seem to hold true for the youth of Derry.  

I have noticed that many teenagers in this area are trying to create their own history within The Troubles through the creation of organizations that I can best describe as gangs, such as the Bogside Republican Youth.  It is these youth gangs, which are promoting both violence and unruliness that must be squelched before they become the seed for future conflict.  In this regard, the local authorities can only do so much; if I am to ask one thing of the people of Derry, it is to make sure that you know where your children are and what they are doing at all times.  I have met many people of the older generation, and I know that many of these people are capable of being great parents (and many probably are).  It just takes a little bit of effort on everybody’s part.  I recognize that a support system isn’t fully developed here in Derry yet, but the Nerve Centre, recreational sports, and the Playhouse are all great institutions which have the means to create change within the youth of the community.  Please work to show the importance of peace to the younger generations – they hold the future for Derry.

I have learned a lot from my experiences and encounters while in Derry, and have learned lessons and values that I will never forget.  This has been my longest single trip outside of the United States, and I truly feel that the horizon of my thinking has been broadened.  While I have learned a great deal about the conflict that was present in this part of world, and the steps that are being taken to bring about total peace, I find that I have taken more away from the interactions I’ve had with people on a personal level than all of the lectures combined.  With only two days left, and a couple of late nights still ahead, I would like to thank everyone that I’ve met in Derry for the kindness and acceptance I have received while visiting your city.  Cheers.

The Perks of Being a Journalist

Over the past day, I have had a few people from the city of Derry mention to me that they read my article in the Derry News. Needless to say, it was a very weird experience to have a total stranger from another country come up to me and compliment me on my writing. The first thing my cab driver said to me the other day was, 'I saw your article in the Derry News yesterday... well done. I really enjoyed it.' I was thrown off by this statement at first, but made sure to thank him for the compliment. The driver and I then engaged in a conversation about America and where I was from and what I was doing in Derry. I explained to the driver that I was from New Jersey and was studying at Magee College for a few weeks. When he heard that I was from New Jersey, he exclaimed, 'Ah! I know New Jersey... The Sopranos!' I had a good laugh over this statement as he explained to me that The Sopranos was his favorite show on TV. He asked me if New Jersey was accurately portrayed within the TV show. I explained to him that there is a strong contingent of Italians in New Jersey, but the extent of the drama in the TV show is a bit aggrandized. I also tried to explain to him that there are different areas of New Jersey that don't look anything like the setting that is portrayed on the HBO series; he didn't really seem to get it.

Also, in the gym this morning I had a man engage me in conversation in the locker room as we were changing. As an American, there is a level of discomfort being stark naked next to a stranger in a gym locker room. However, in Northern Ireland they seem to have no problem conversing with a complete stranger while in the nude. The man asked me where I was from, as all Northern Irelanders seem prone to do (they are quite curious about Americans). After hearing that I was from New Jersey, he responded, 'I know New Jersey! Frank Sinatra was from New Jersey! I love Frank Sinatra!' Before I could agree with him about Frank Sinatra being a great singer, the man began listing off every single place he had been in America. 'Alaska, Montana, California, Washington, Massacuhsetts, New York, Flordia, etc.' He asked me if I knew where all of these places were from and if I had ever heard of them. I sat there and acknowledged for every single state that I had heard of it and knew where it was. He told me that he had been to Hoboken, New Jersey and he loved it. The man was very nice and easy to talk to, but I couldn't help but find it hysterical that he was asking me if I had ever heard of the different states that he had been to. After his rant on his travels and I was allowed to explain to him that I was studying at Magee College, he stopped me to say, 'You're the one who is writing at the Derry News! I thought you looked familiar... I saw your article in the paper the other day. Are you going to be here much longer?' I explained to him that I would be leaving on Sunday, and he responded with an expression of disappointment. I told him that he should still look for my closing article which will appear in Monday's edition of the paper. He told me that he absolutely would. As we were leaving the gym, he bought me a newspaper and told the woman working the desk to, 'put it on [his] account.' He offered me a ride home, but I told him that I lived two blocks down and it wasn't necessary. He wished me 'the best of luck' and we parted ways. It's funny how a situation that I initially perceived as awkward and uncomfortable turned out to be one that was both heart-warming and comforting. I feel that encounters such as this are really at the heart of my experience in Northern Ireland to this point. While there are certain things that I don't understand or seem foreign to me, I always seem to walk away feeling better about myself and the experiences I've had.

Dublin! vs Belfast...

My first trip to Dublin proved to be even more exciting than I had expected.  The city was filled with people and provided a much faster pace of life than I could have ever expected.  People walked at a pace that rivaled that of New Yorkers, but the atmosphere inside the restaurants was still laid back and relaxed.  Also much to my surprise, the people were still just as friendly as in the smaller town of Derry, despite the drastic economic and lifestyle differences.

The city of Dublin is filled with an energy that stems directly from its people.  The atmosphere is one that is comprised of people who are always laughing and smiling, while embracing an American-style work ethic.  The residents of Dublin appear to be driven to make the most of their careers as they climb the economic ladder.  Dublin has been going through a true Renaissance over the past decade, and it appears that the Republic of Ireland is ready to enter the global environment as a market contributor.  The buildings in Dublin are beautiful and clean and one must search hard to find graffiti on building-sides.  Everywhere I looked, I could see new construction and buildings being added to the already beautiful skyline.  The city's quaint atmosphere and tight, busy streets reminded me of areas of Boston that have cobbled streets and are littered with small pubs and eateries.  The waiters/waitresses in the pubs could not have been nicer and were more than willing to help out a few clumsy Americans who decided to put their orders on one bill.  Luckily for us, they didn't get upset when they had to break down the bill upon our realization of the mistake.  Additionally, while in Dublin I was able to visit the Guinness Factory, which is a location that I have desired to visit since I first learned of its existence... this is of little significance to the sociology aspect of Dublin, but none the less it is something that I enjoyed greatly.

Dissimilarly from the wonderful, thriving atmosphere of Dublin, Belfast is one of the worst cities I have ever visited.  Belfast is riddled with 'peace walls' which are meant to separate Catholic communities from Protestant communities.  These 'peace walls' seem to be an oxymoron to me since 'peace' is not a tangible event or thing that can be controlled; rather, it is an idea or belief that must be achieved through conversation and political means.  These peace walls were constructed as a means of controlling the violence between different communities, but instead they are adding to the rift by completing separating the two cultures.  In my opinion, this form of 'damage control' leads to assumptions and the embracement of stereotypes.  This only adds to furthering the divide and hatred between Catholics and Protestants by not allowing them to work through their differences on an everyday basis.  They will never get to know their 'enemy' and therefore will erect effigies within their mind that are based solely on assumptions.

First Real Article Printed (Written for 6/2/2008)

My first opinion article ever to be professionally printed came out today in the Derry News. It is titled, 'Derry: An Outside Impression.' The article is about 600 words in length and is the main feature on the Opinions page. Writing at the Derry News has been an unforgettable experience. From the very first day, they had me interviewing people from Northern Ireland about their businesses and writing an article based on the interview. It was a difficult task at first because it was only my second day in Northern Ireland and I had not yet gotten used to the thick Northern Irish acccent (I still have difficulty understanding it and I've been here for over two weeks). I've also written two DVD reviews on the films 'American Gangster' and 'No Country for Old Men' which have both appeared in the Derry News.

I love going into work on Tuesday and Thursday knowing that I am going to be writing articles that will be printed in only a couple days time. At first the feeling was stressful because I wanted to make sure that all of my writing was perfect and it got to the point that I was almost over-analyzing my writing. Once I saw my first article in the paper and felt comfortable with it, however, the nervousness went away and I became confident in my writing and have really embraced my position as a writer. It is a great feeling going into the office in the morning and talking to the other writers before I sit in on the editor's meeting where they decide what will appear in the next issue of the paper. It is even more exciting when the editor tells me my assignments for the day as it gives me a feeling of professionalism within the office. Furthermore, it is exciting that the editor has the confidence in me to simply give me an assignment with the understanding that I will get it done. I really enjoy the responsibility that I am given at the Derry News.

The people in the office are tremendous and it is a pleasure to work with them. The women in the office often make me a cup of tea while I am writing and bring it up to me from the kitchen. The men are easy to get along with and share the same crude sense of humor that can be found around a fraternity house. The only thing that is strange to me about the office is the amount of swearing and four-letter words that are thrown about in such a professional evnironment. I would have to say that this is simply an area of cultural differences as the Irish are known for their vulgar language. Overall, this is one of the greatest experiences I have ever had in my life, especially when one considers that I am an English major who wrote for the high school newspaper when I was growing up. I am looking forward to writing more articles for the paper, but am disheartened by the fact that I only have two days left and will not be able to see my last article in print for the Derry News as I will already be back in the States.

So Conflict Does Still Exist...

This past Sunday, while walking the walls of Derry, I saw something that I could never have imagined I would have seen on this trip a week ago. I was taking pictures of a Protestant area and some boys playing football just past the walls when a group of Catholic Nationalist boys wearing green 'Celtic' jerseys started yelling at the Protestant boys below them. They were calling them derogatory names such as 'bitches' and 'faggots', and other such terms. The Catholics were making fun of the Protestant boys who were wearing 'Rangers' jerseys, since Celtic had just won the title for the Irish Football League. The Protestant boys began yelling back at one of the Catholics about his grandmother and then made the comment that the boy's grandmother was dead; a heated argument ensued. Almost immediately after the Protestant boys' statement about the Catholic boy's grandmother, the Catholic boys began breaking pieces of rock off from the wall and throwing them down at the Protestant boys who were on the football pitch.

The whole event happened so spontaneously that I didn't know how to react. My adrenaline was pumping as pieces of stone began flying over my head and all around me onto the wall. I was so wrapped up in the moment that I momentarily forgot that I was in the middle of a serious fight. With camera already in hand, I did all I could think of, and began pounding away at the shutter. The look of hate in the boys' eyes on the wall was so intense, it was like nothing I had ever seen before. The boys had an expression of war on their faces and in their body language, and it was surreal to see such young boys having apparently lost their innocence entirely. The boys were throwing with all their might to try and injure the boys below them. The scene was nothing short of electric and I could feel myself feeding off of their energy. In contrast to my last post, which was optimistic and hopeful for the return of peace to Derry, I now have a great deal of concern for the city.

The ages of the ten or so boys involved is what concerns me the most about the events that took place on Saturday. The youngest boy looked to be about eleven, while the oldest member of the group appeared to be about fifteen. If this level of violence is present within the current youth of Derry, there is little hope for the subsidence of violence any time soon. Furthermore, I also observed a brush fire just outside of the bogside that was started by drunk teenagers. I learned from a local taxi driver that drinking and unruliness are serious problems with the current youth of Derry. Unfortunately, since there is little else to do, kids drink most nights of the week. This sense of entitlement to be unruly seems to stem from the mentality of the IRA during the Troubles in Derry. Unruly actions during the Troubles were seen in a different light than they are now since the idea behind rioting was mainly one that was anti-central government. Now, the rioting is only working to cause a regression within the community. Former IRA members, as explained by one of the bogside artists, do not support the actions of the Bogside Republican Youth and other such gangs since they are merely a menace to society.

First Impressions of Derry

5/23/08

This article appeared in the Derry News on Monday June 2, 2008:

It is only my third day in Derry and already I can see that there is something special about this city. As an American, it is always refreshing to meet people with vastly different backgrounds and opinions than I am accustomed to. The people of Derry are charming and it is very easy to strike up a conversation with anyone I meet. Whether it be cheering for Manchester United or talking about the graduation of someone's daughter from school, the people here make it easy for someone to feel comfortable in a place where simply crossing the road is a confusing and perilous adventure. The 'Walled City' seems an unfit title for a town that has so many outgoing and open-minded people.

When I first arrived in Northern Ireland and was traveling from Belfast to Derry, I couldn't help but think of how similar the landscape was to that of Central Pennsylvania, where I am currently enrolled at school. The green landscape and rolling hills made me unsure if I was actually in the right place, until I saw all of the sheep. The city of Derry itself is beautiful and its complex history fascinates me. The Foyle River provides a wonderful backdrop for the city and allows for some lovely views from the city walls.


The food in Derry isn't very similar to American food in that everything appears to be served with some sort of sauce or mayonnaise. While it seemed odd at first to have the 'Doner Kebab' served with five different sauces on it, the effect was surprisingly delicious. The fish and chips and 'bangers and mashed' have also proven to be traditional Derry favorites that I found myself enjoying quite a bit. I should also mention that there truly is a difference between Guinness in Ireland and its American counterpart.


The other day, I sat in on two discussions with a professor of politics from the University of Ulster and two representatives of the Democratic Loyalist Party. After both discussions, I was glad to hear of the tremendous strides that have been made in Derry with regards to the conflict that made this area of the world so famous, but was disheartened to discover that there is still a strong divide within the city. Unfortunately, it seems that there are still some issues that both sides of the argument are unwavering on and only time will tell how history will play out for Derry. I find myself hoping that the age old saying of 'time heals all wounds' holds true and that a resolution that suits both sides is ultimately discovered.


It seems bizarre to me that people living in the same city, along adjacent streets, and close enough to be considered neighbors, could engage in a violent battle for decades about an argument that is based on place. I can't understand how so many people could have such disdain for one another because they feel that they are from different backgrounds. In my eyes, it doesn't matter if someone considers themselves Irish, British, Protestant, or Catholic, everyone here is a resident of the city of Derry. I suppose that it is the strong sense of identity that people have in Derry that is the most difficult concept for me to grasp. A sectarian conflict that is not based on appearance or language, but rather identity, is a situation that I find to be confusing, but also very intriguing. For now, I will simply seek to absorb as much of the culture of the area as possible and try to gain a better understanding of the conflict, while stopping to have a Guinness or two along the way.